Kenya March 2026 (Page 2)

Friday the 13th and things didn't go to plan.

We were supposed to leave Karen Blixen Camp and head over to Encounter Mara. However, the torrential storm last night (lasted about 3 hours solid) meant that the Mara River had visibly risen and wasn't passable on the way to our new camp.

The decision was finally made that we would stay at KBC for at least one more night. They upgraded our tent and sorted out game drives for us for Friday afternoon and Saturday morning then let's see.

Mara River

This is what we woke up to and it showed no signs of subsiding during the day so, although it's very frustrating, I think the right decision was made.

Rather than just sit around, I explored the camp - very pretty but not very big but at least my walk meant I knew where tent 4 was (other side of the camp to tent 11 where we were before).

We had lunch at camp - the first time I'd had lunch in the mess tent since we got here - very tasty Red Snapper for me.

path

flowers
view
flowers

fungus

flower
cactus
view

Tent 4 is slightly up river from tent 11 and much closer to the river, which was just as "busy".

 

We went on an afternoon safari drive. We spent quite a bit of time with the Lion cubs and I thought that would be the highlight of the drive but we saw a Leopard when it was almost time to come home.

wildebeest

cub
lion
People often ask how close do we get to the animals. Sometimes, we can be parked up and they decide to come a lot closer to us than we would naturally get to them. This Lioness was a case in point - she decided to have a drink about 2 ft away from us. Very special.
lioness
lioness and truck
cubs

cubs

aunty and cub
cubs
cub
mum and cub
cubs
mum jump
cubs
jump
lion
mum and cub
cubs
lion
lion
A Hippo had died of natural causes in this pond. This cub was braver / more adventurous than its sibling and paddled across to help himself to a tasty meal.
cub
hartebeest

It was lovely to see some Hartebeest - there was a small group of them as we drove into the conservancy.

The Dwarf Mongoose were hard to see let alone photograph (Jonathon likes a challenge).

dwarf mongoose

agama lizard
baboon

Whenever we went out, we saw something different. The Agama Lizard was enjoying the afternoon sunshine.

The baby Baboon soon left his mound when a larger one moved in, but it was nice while it lasted.

I was happy to photograph a Buffalo calf and Jonathon was very happy to catch the late afternoon sun on a relaxed Buffalo.
buffalo
buffalo
topi
We saw a large variety of birds so here they are:

bird

African Fish Eagle? (over the river in camp)

bulbul

Bulbul

bulbul

Bulbul

village weaver

Village Weaver

bee eater

Bee Eater

Bee Eater

Bee Eater

Shrike

Helmeted Shrike

flycatcher

African Gray Flycatcher

bird

Rufus Naped Lark

bird

Rufous-naped Lark

shrike

Helmeted Shrike

Francolin

Red Billed Francolin

cisticola

Stout Cisticola

whinchat

Whinchat

jacana

African Jacana

Egyptian Goose

Egyptian Goose

bird

Spur-winged Lapwing

bustard

Black Bellied Bustard

Ox Peckers

Oxpecker

leopard
leopard
The Leopard was really special. They are naturally shy and very well camouflaged so we were lucky to see him. Apparently his mum was somewhere in the vicinity but she takes shyness to a new level so we definitely didn't spot her.
leopard

We spent so long with the Leopard that the sun was setting when we started our drive back to camp.

sunset

There was thunder and lightning on the way back so we went straight in for dinner to try and avoid any possible rain. The rain was just starting as we walked back to our new tent.

Around 9 p.m. the thunder and lightning started in earnest and then more torrential rain. Deep joy!

The nights are usually black dark but the lightning completely lit up our balcony with thunder directly ahead.

lightning

Saturday - the river was about 2 ft higher this morning than yesterday but it was starting to recede by the time we got back from our early game drive.

There was yet another beautiful sunrise as we headed into the conservancy and plenty to see.

sunrise

sunrise
As we headed out, we doubted whether we'd be changing camps today but we would find out when we got back. All our bags were packed in readiness, just in case, but with no real expectation of moving on.

hippo




dikdik

We were really pleased to be able to photograph this Dik dik.

lions

These were two new Lions - even Francis hadn't seen them before. Clearly the lure of a dead hippo (natural causes) had enticed them to the pond.

cubs and aunty

lion

lioness

cubs
lion
lion

cubs

 

giraffe

There seemed to be a lot more giraffe around today.

giraffe

The "special' animal we encountered on this drive was Fred. He is about 53 years old - a real tusker.
Fred
Fred
Fred
... and now to the birds ... we saw quite a few new species on the drive.

mousebird

Speckled Mousebird

Kite

Black Shouldered Kite

vulture

Lappet-faced Vulture

kingfisher

Pied Kingfisher

kingfisher

Pied Kingfisher

kingfisher

Pied Kingfisher

plover

Wattled Plover

tawnt

Juvenile Tawny Eagle

starling

Long Tailed Starling

egret

Cattle Egret

ducks

Whistling Ducks

chat

Sooty Chat?

starling

Long Tailed Starling

roller

Lilac Breasted Roller

grenadier

Purple Grenadier

weaver

Speckle-fronted Weaver

go-away-bird

Bare-faced Go-away-bird

Coucal

White Browed Coucal

bulbul

Bulbul

We got back to camp where Moses showed us some photos of the crossings to the new camp - both the usual route and a possible alternative. Neither were passable. A bit later, we heard form Audley and, after a few emails to and fro, it was agreed that we should stay at Karen Blixen Camp for the last couple of days of our holiday and we'd be collected from there and taken to Nairobi airport after a game drive and breakfast on Monday. At least we now knew what were doing and could unpack etc.

We set off for our afternoon game drive and, before long, the heavens opened. This time I accepted the offer of a poncho to try and stay reasonably dry. Jack put down one side of the plastic windows and we both sat at that side, looking out of the other, camera at the ready in Jonathon's case.

When the rain stopped, the light was quite special.

light
mongoose

The Banded Mongoose were having a ery active time in the old termite mound. In and out of the holes, leaving the mound, trotting back and so on.

And then the rain came ...

These poor Elephants were absolutely soaked.

elephant
elephant
zebra

Jonathon has an ideal Zebra photo in his head. This is getting quite close to what he is after but not quite there.

In the meantime, baby Zebra was doing its best to find shelter with its Mum.

zebra
We visited a breeding herd of Elephants. I really like young Elephants - so cute, not quite knowing what to do with their trunk but trying to copy the adults.
elephant
elephants
elephant
baby elephant
elephant
suckling elephant
elephants
elephant
On our way to look for a Cheetah, Jonathon had the shock of his life. A big, male Warthog suddenly shot out of his burrow, shouting and swearing for all he was worth - right next to the safari truck where Jonathon was seated. I think he saw the funny side of it when he recovered from the shock.
cheetah

We were told earlier in the week that Cerval Cats were very shy, hard to spot etc. This female proved all those points wrong as she wandered around, posing nicely for photographs etc.

cerval cat
cerval
cerval cat
cerval
cerval
cerval

cerval

Night, night Cerval Cat - it was lovely seeing you

The birds from this safari trip were many and varied

vulture

White Backed Vulture

francolin

Red-necked Spurfowl

bird

Stout Cisticola

bird

Black Stork

crane

Gray Crowned Crane

stork

Yellow Billed Stork

Widow bird

Jackson's Widowbird

lark

Fan-tailed Widowbird (female)?

bishop

Yellow Bishop

bird

Croaking Cisticola

Once again, we were so caught up with big cats that it was getting dark by the time we left the conservancy. The sunset was quite stunning as we drove home.

sunset

Sunday and we'd reached our last full day in camp. I used my torch to check the river levels in the morning (not light when we get up for safari) and, to my delight, I saw a Genet. Obviously too dark (and too slow on my part) to photograph it but it was a lovely surprise!

It was quite misty when we set off but the sun came up before long.

morning mist
sunrise
sunrise
We saw a lot of Giraffe, Zebra and Antelope on the way but it was too dark to photograph them. These two Eland were wandering about just about when the sun rose.
eland

First stop was to check on what was left of the Hippo and see if there was any Lion activity. Two Lionesses (one at a time) decided to have a munch. The second one dragged the carcass to the edge of the pond so she didn't have to stand in so much water.

The other Lions were not far away, sleeping under a bushy canopy and the cubs were well hidden.

There was a Hyena not far away, sniffing the air - possibly trying to work out when it would be safe for him to scavenge.

lion
lioness
lion
lion

hyena

Our next animal encounter was a male Cheetah. He was on the prowl, looking for something to eat but all the Antelope and other animals around were fully aware of him so he wasn't having any luck.

cheetah

cheetah
cheetah and topi
cheetah
cheetah and gazelle
cheetah
cheetah
Apparently this is a mushroom. Francis explained that Maasai don't eat mushrooms (I'd fit in well). It was enormous - would fall off the edge of a dinner plate.
mushroom
A treat today was breakfast on the hill. The views were stunning.

breakfast

truck

breakfast view

chef and Jack
Jonathon
Solomon

This is our lovely Solomon, who seemed to be everywhere that food was involved. He looked after us very well all week, even serving us some special, traditional Kenyan food for dinner on Saturday night as we'd been in camp so long!

 

The Giraffe were easier to photograph on the way back in the light.

giraffe
Again, there were loads of birds to be photographed!

go away bird

Bare Faced Go-Away-Bird

kite

Black Shouldered Kite

bird

Rufous-naped Lark

snipe

Snipe

birds

Wood Sandpiper

bird

Rufous-naped Lark

bird

Northern Fiscal

stork

Abdim's Stork

hornbill

African Gray Hornbill

hornbill

African Gray Hornbill

Back at camp with plenty of time to go through our photos, relax, enjoy the sunshine and marvel at how much the river had gone down.

The view from our tent was pretty in the sunshine.

The Hippos across the river seemed to have a lot to say for themselves - perhaps a bit happier now the river is calmer.

view from tent

hippo

The sunshine lasted all day - it looks so much better when that happens!

That said, it was quite quiet around the conservancy when we first got there for the afternoon drive - I think the animals were all looking for shade. The reappeared as the heat of the day subsided.

 

wildebeest

We didn't see any Jackal for a while then there were a few of them slinking about.

I wasn't sure what the Jackal was intending to do with the feather but it was very proud of its find.

jackal

jackal
This Buffalo was taking a mud pack to a completely new level. The mud hole was just the right size for a huge male to wallow about in and he took full advantage, having to scramble out when he thought he was done. Then he decided that his face wasn't covered in enough mud so he rub his face in it. Yuck!
buffalo
buffalo
buffalo

We visited some different parts of the conservancy on our afternoon drive - ancient rocks and mature trees. Apparently there was a Rock Hyrax in the rocks but I couldn't see it. Thankfully, Jonathon could see it through his big lens.

tree and rocks
hyrax
rocks
view
croc
I could definitely see the creature in this area - the Crocodile was enormous.

We watched the male Cheetah for a while - he was stalking a gazelle. Unfortunately, for him (but not for the gazelle) he didn't catch it. He'll be hungry for a while longer.

cheetah
cheetah
giraffe

We finally saw a Giraffe eating high leaves from a tree. I was wondering if we would spot one so was pleased when we did.

It was grooming time at the Baboon corner. Once groomed, the youngsters were happy to play in the trees and long grass.

baboon

elephants

These three Elephants are a lot drier than when we saw them before!

butterfly

The Butterflies were really enjoying the Fireball Lilies.

 

We saw a Hyena den and plenty of Hyenas hanging around. They are so chilled (unless there's food in the offing).

hyena cub
hyena
hyena
... and now the birds from the afternoon drive

lark

Red-capped Lark

bird

Rufous-naped Lark

bird

Rufous-naped Lark

starling

Long Tailed Starling

eagle

Juvenile Tawny Eagle

bird

Rattling Cisticola

bird

Yellow-spotted Bush Sparrow

longclaw

Yellow Throated Longclaw

kingfisher

Striped Kingfisher

Dusk doesn't happen in this part of Kenya (too close to the Equator). Instead, the sun starts setting and before you know it, it's dark, just like someone switched the light off.

sunset

sunset
sunset

bush fire

We got back to camp and had a yummy dinner.

The camp fire was lit but, unfortunately, we had to pack our bags for real because we were heading off to Nairobi for the long journey home tomorrow (after one last game drive and breakfast).

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