Ecuador (incl. the Galapagos Islands) March 2020

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Our home for The Galapagos Islands part of the holiday was aboard M/Y Passion

As you can see, it was very luxurious. The food was delicious and the staff were great. There were 13 guests and 11 crew.

passion
passion
passion
passion
passion
Passion
To reach the boat, we took a flight from Guayaquil to Baltra, a bus from the airport to a ferry, a coach from there to a ranch on Santa Cruz to spend time with some Dome-back Tortoises - they were giants!

tortoise

tortoise

They eat an enormous amount of food!

tortoise

tortoise

tortoise

tortoise
After a delicious, three-course lunch on board we visited the Charles Darwin Research Centre where we learned about the breeding programme

tortoise

The one in the photo on the right was a tiny baby.

tortoise

tortoise

These were a bit older - 3 years or so.

tortoise

tortoise

These hybrids (part dome-back, part saddle-back) had been sterilised but will be released back into the wild as they are really important to the Prickly Pear population.

prickly pear

They eat the fruit and it takes so long for anything to go through their digestive system that the seeds end up being spread around.

bird

bird

Jonathon took a few shots of birds along the way (with the right lens this time!)

bird

iguana

Just as we were leaving the centre, we came across a gathering of Marine Iguana - they looked very different from the Green Iguana we had seen in Guayaquil the day before.

We strolled back through the town and returned to the boat for a briefing on the following day's activities and dinner (I skipped dinner - you can only eat so much in a day!).

early

We woke up to be anchored off Floreana

Within a few moments of setting off for our panga ride, we came across a pair of mating Green Sea Turtles ...
turtle
... and then, a pod of Bottle-nosed Dolphin
dolphin
dolphin
dolphin
dolphin
dolphin
Boobies were next on the viewing "schedule" with several Blue-Footed Booby and a few Nazca Booby (the one on the bottom right is a juvenile Nazca Booby)
booby
booby
booby
nazca booby
nazca booby

friggate

Not to be outdone, the Frigate Birds were circling (this one is a male) and, once we'd landed for our morning walk, we spotted a Lava Heron ...

heron

iguana

... but not before we'd seen this lovely Marine Iguana soaking up the sun

flamingo

We walked along a trail to look for Flamingo and were lucky enough to find some! There were some spectacular views along the way ...

view

... and some smaller birds as well

bird
bird
warbler

seagrass

At the end of the trail was a beautiful, white, sandy beach

view

shark

A Black-tipped Shark cruised by in the shallows and Brown Pelicans were soaring all around (whoever knew they were so pretty underneath)

pelican

pelican
The water was really clear - we were really looking forward to snorkelling later in the week
sea
After lunch we went to visit the site where human habitation of the Galapagos all started. The walk was really interesting and Robert kept us all amused with his local stories. Thankfully, we had a lift to the start of the trail (and back again) with the driver (Walter) being a descendant of one of the first people to live in Floreana.
transport

view

pirate

pathway

pathway

view

The views from the top were amazing

heron
Not Jonathon's favourite creatures but there were some very colourful Sally Lightfoot crabs around when we got back to the dock. Whilst they scuttled around, the Sealions simply ignored us and got on with dozing, the Lava Heron watched on from on top of the shelter and the Marine Iguanas lounged around.

crab

crab

seaion

sealion
iguana
Day 4 and we visited the postbox (barrel) to post a card to ourselves. The idea is that you put a card in the barrel and each visitor group goes through the cards to see if there are any with addresses local to them so they can hand deliver them. None for Kent or Yorkshire when we went through them so no delivery for us to make.
postbox
panga

seagrass

beach
pelican

pelican

The main purpose of visiting this lovely beach was snorkelling but it was too rough for Jonathon and me so we stayed on the beach and had a nice walk around, admiring the colours and watching a friendly pelican.

pelican

dolphin

dolphin

dolphin

While we travelled to the next anchor point, we spotted a pod of Common Dolphin that were very happy playing in the surf.

sunset

fog

The next morning we woke up to fog. A really early start as we were heading for a lava flow walk on Isabella and it gets too hot to be there mid-morning.

It was very hard walking but we were provided with sticks to help us along the way and Robert stopped to explain what was what at regular intervals.

robert

jc

lavapool

There was some water up there - pools being fed by the sea. There were a few puffer fish and a turtle in this pool. There are also mangrove trees around and about that do a really good job of desalinating the water, even if it does mean they sacrifice a few leaves in a really clever way to get rid of the excess salt.

cactus

cactus

There were cacti around as well. The one on the left creates its own soil by dropping its "fingers" and allowing them to "compost" down into soil. Once it thinks it has enough it starts to grow wider and taller - so clever!

cactus
plant

This was where the pangas picked us up - great fun walking down the rocks but we had a lot of help from Robert and Ricardo. We didn't envy the panga drivers having to negotiate their way through the rocks in the water.

ocean

crowd

The next treat was a panga ride to see a whole load of wildlife, including this female frigate bird.

frigate

penguin

Galapagos Penguin and huge Marine Iguanas seemed quite happy side by side.

penguin
iguana
iguana
iguana
penguin

penguib

penguin
penguin

penguin

The main aim was to try and see the Galapagos Penguin (tick!) and the Flightless Cormorant (also tick - see right). As you can see, we saw a whole load of other animals and birds as well.

cormorant
pelican

iguana

sealion

crab

There were Sally Lightfoot crabs everywhere!

crabs

After yet another delicious lunch we went over to a beach on Isabella to look for Land Iguanas.

In the photo on the right there is a male and a female. The male wasn't keen on our presence at all so having nodded his head to tell us to go away he disappeared into his burrow, kicking soil at us as he went. As soon as we moved on he re-emerged.

landiguana

land iguana

iguana

iguana
land iguana

Jonathon decided to take his infra red camera with him on this walk - I still think the photos are really strange with all the green showing as white.

We saw a few Tortoises as well as we wandered around.

tortoise

They were members of a very special, rescued species

tortoise

tortoise

Robert doing yet more explaining!

crowd

path

This was part of the path we strolled along - very pretty.

crowd

It wasn't as dark as this in real life.

bird

There was plenty of bird-life around ...

finches

... the male finches are black; the females, brown.

Back to the panga to return to the ship.

coast

It was somewhat choppy but at least my inelegant entry into the panga gave the others on the beach a giggle!

The day dawned bright and clear and promised to be hot!

The ship in the photo is the Mary Anne - she used to have the same owner as M/Y Passion but had been sold on by the time of our holiday.

morning

Darwin's Lake

First trip of the morning was to enjoy the views of Darwin's Lake. A good uphill walk and when we got to the top we could also see volcanoes (and we found a couple of Lava Lizard).

volcano
walk

lizard

trees
Darwin's Lake
volcano

caterpillar

The only butterflies we'd seen were Sulphur Butterflies so perhaps a younger one of those?

fish

Finally we were brave enough to venture into the water with our snorkelling gear (it was much calmer)

fish

The water wasn't particularly clear (better near the edge) but there was still plenty to see

fish

starfish

Chocolate Chip Starfish - what a great name!

sea grass

penguin

The penguin didn't worry about humans.

fish

cormorant

cormorant

We didn't expect to get this close to a Flightless Cormorant (he walked along Jonathon as if he were a rock!). Apparently his claws were pretty sharp.

That afternoon found us in yet another island - Fernandina this time.

The focus of attention for this visit was Marine Iguanas and Galapagos Sea Lions - both of which we saw in abundance.

We were also lucky enough to see a couple of Galapagos Hawks (their favourite food is Iguana but we didn't see a kill).

sealion

sealion

Robert explained to us that the Sea Lions use their whiskers as ears and eyes. If they were blind it would be less of a problem for them than if they lost their whiskers which would, in effect, be a death sentence as they wouldn't be able to sense their prey.

sealion

Lunch time

sealion

sealion

sealion

sealion

sealion

sealion

lizard

You can see a Lava Lizard on top of the big male Sea Lion - I don't think I'd get that close!

iguana

iguana

There were hundreds of Marine Iguana - all piled on top of each other. We had to be really careful where we walked to make sure we didn't stand on any tails.

iguana
iguana
me
iguana

cormoran

hawk

The Galapagos Hawk is the main predator in the islands, feasting on Iguana - you can see why it lives on Fernandina with so many Marine Iguana around.

hawk

sunset

Another amazing sunset and time for bed while the boat travelled around the top of Isabella to our next stopping point off Isla Santiago.

sunrise

morning clouds

The day dawned bright and clear and promised to be really hot. As usual, we set off quite early to avoid the worst of the heat and had a really great walk around Isla Santiago.

There were quite a few Sea Lions and Marine Iguana. There were also a few Land Iguana. The scientists had only just begun to re-introduce the Land Iguana to Santiago so it was good to see them.

flycatcher

This lovely little Galapagos Flycatcher (with a friend or two) came to say hello - they were only inches away from us - clearly nobody has explained the 6 foot rule to them!

flycatcher

heron

Yellow Capped Night Heron

prickly pear

The Yellow Cordia (below) is used for all sorts of medicinal things.

We were surprised to see a pink flower because there is only one bee in the Galapagos - the Carpenter Bee - and it likes yellow and white flowers. Perhaps the birds polinate the pink ones?

plant
plant

cordia

fur seal

A Galapagos Fur Seal (really a sea lion rather than a seal) - they are nocturnal and curl up in the lava cracks during the day to sleep.

furseal

They have much bigger eyes than the Galapagos Sea Lion

fur seal

Robert

Robert showing us a sloughed off skin from a Sally Lightfoot Crab - very impressive. He estimated that it had only been discarded that day as it was still soft.

crab

Hermit crab - a different kind of crab to those we'd seen earlier in the week.

spider

No idea what kind of spider this is but Robert assured us there are no poisonous spiders in the islands.

sealion

The star of the show for the visit was this gorgeous baby Sea Lion - so cute!

sealion

They were talking to each other a lot of the time and Mum did allow a feed for a while but then shooed him / her off. as she decided he'd had enough.

birthday

The chef had made a delicious birthday lunch, I had a fancy, glittery hat to wear and some candles to blow out. What more could you possibly want!

birthday

shark

Snorkelling after lunch -the water wasn't particularly clear but we saw a few fish / reef sharks swimming about and the water was nice and warm.

view

Snorkelling was followed by either kayaking (Not us) or a Panga Ride

view

We got wet because it rained (not for long). The cliffs / volcanic layers were impressive.

view

The colours were spectacular in the sun.

GalDove

Galapagos Dove

gull

Swallow-tailed Gull

tern

Brown Noddy Tern

monk

Praying Monk

Elephant Rock

Elephant Rock

sunset

 

After enjoying the sunset, Robert gave us a really interesting presentation about conservation in the Galapagos and my birthday celebrations came to an end.
sunrise

sunrise

We were spoiled with a really pretty sunrise the next morning.

lava

jc

Back we went to Isla Santiago to admire the contrast between the lava flow and the volcanic ash cones. Robert encouraged us to just sit for a few minutes and soak in the atmosphere - it was really peaceful.

walk

Robert explaining what we were looking at

walk

Robert playing dead

lava

Pretty Lava Patterns

fish
fish
fish
Almost as soon as we returned from the island we were in our wetsuits ready for snorkelling. The water was much clearer which meant we could see the fish swimming around more easily.
snorkel

puffer

fish
fish

penguin

fish
star

ray

I was delighted to get a photo of this lovely Ray as it floated past me.

jc
By the afternoon, we'd travelled to North Seymour to have a look at the nesting birds, principally Blue-footed Boobies and Frigate Birds.

frigate juvenile

This juvenile Frigate Bird had just been fed by Mum then decided to put on a show for us

frigate juvenile

We weren't sure whether he was simply trying to cool down or if this display had another meaning

frigate male

Male Frigate Birds puff up their red chest like a balloon and flap their wings when looking for a mate. The more experienced ones also build a nest to attract a female.

frigate
frigate
frigate

frigate

A female Frigate Bird checking out the males.

booby

Blue-footed Boobies make a whilstling sound whilst raising one foot then the other to show how blue they are - again to attract the females.

bath

Booby having a bath in the ocean

booby
booby

view

The island was really hot but there was plenty of interesting scenery. As we went back to the pangas, we also saw both Marine and Land Iguanas and Sea Lions, including a Sea Lion nursery which was lovely to see.

gull

gull

We got a lot closer to Swallow-tailed Gulls on the island than we had whilst on the panga

gull

Swallow-tailed Gulls mating - not sure they appreciated having an audience

jc

One final treat - a very early morning trip to Mosquera beach to watch the sunrise (and the Sea Lions of course).

Then back on board to go to the airport for Quito, only to be given bad news that we were being sent home the following day because of the corona virus.

sea lion

ray

This Spotted Eagle Ray floated by in front of us

ss
sunrise
sunrise
sunrise
sunrise
sunrise
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