Tanzania & Zanzibar 2012

Having travelled to South Africa and later to Australia to celebrate my 50th, it was hard to decide what to do for Jonathon's. I gave him a choice - polar bears in Canada or safari in Tanzania. As you can tell from the heading, He chose Tanzania (after much deliberation).

We booked through Sandra and the team at Frontier Travel and flew direct to Dar Es Salaam with BA (Norbert - 767) then took a Precision Air flight to Kilimanjaro (Norbert - not sure but it had ATR 72 and H5 - PWD on it and it was a prop plane). We left the heavy rain, thunder etc in London and arrived in Kili to dry, sunny weather.

The best view of Kilimanjaro was from the BA plane and our first real sight of where we were going.

kili

As with other holidays, I've split the pages so they don't take forever to load in so please click on the page you'd like to see. We took so many animal and bird photos that I've put most of them on separate pages as well. I've tried to take a few "movies" this year as well so they are on another separate page - you'll need Flash installed to see them.

Tanzania

Zanzibar

"Movies"

Antelope & Wildebeest

Birds

Cats (non-Lion)

Elephants

Fox, Hyena & Jackals

Giraffe, Zebra & Warthog

Hippo, Rhino & Buffalo

Lions

Primates & Hyrax

Reptiles

Kevin, our expert driver and guide, collected us from the airport in his Toyota Land Cruiser and we had a long drive to Oliver's Camp in the Tarangire National Park, a new place for me as I didn't visit this park last time I was in Tanzania.
kevin
jeep
olivers
Oliver's was a wonderful place to stay. Ken, Michelle and the team made us very welcome, fed us very well and looked after us such that we didn't want to leave. Our tent (as you can see) was pretty luxurious and in line with their green policy the water was heated by solar power (we did have running water for the shower, we didn't just chuck a bucket over each other as the photo suggests!). There were no electric sockets in the tents and there was no blackberry signal - perfect!
olivers
olivers
olivers

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We drove through a lot of countryside!

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corn

The corn had been harvested and the straw was waiting for the cattle. Other crops included bananas and coffee. We also saw a lot of goats and cows being herded along. The picture of cows below gives a good idea of how dusty it was.

cowa
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We called into Arusha for lunch (very nice) then off we went through more vast landscape to the camp.

Arusha is a growing town (seemed quite big to me already) and Kevin said he was glad it was Sunday because it's really busy in the week.

There were lots of lovely plants in the garden where we had lunch. The one on the immediate right is called the Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow Tree - the first day the flowers are deep purple, the second a bit lighter and the third day they're white. It was lovely. The one on the far right is a Bottle Brush Tree.
plant
bottlebrush
arusha
The clock on the left is the centre of town on a roundabout. The market was on the way out of town and is apparently a wholesale market although several entrepreneurs had set up stalls outside.
arusha
arusha
arusha
arusha
We finally reached Tarangire National Park and had to go to Olivers Camp as soon as possible before dark. We made two stops en route - one for Elephants ....
elephant
... and one for Lions. There are a lot more photos on the relevant animal pages, some of the Lion ones are more gruesome than others.
lion
A quick stop to see a bee hive in a natural sense
hive
... and just when we thought we'd say goodbye to the giraffe, zebra, antelope, warthog, wildebeest etc that we'd seen but not photographed, we came across the biggest herd of elephant ever! Rough estimate "somewhere over 500". We came to Tarangire specifically to see elephant and we were delighted.
elephants
Day 2 dawned bright and early (but a while after we'd got up!)
sunrise
bee eater
dikdik

The pretty little bird is a Little Bee Eater and the pretty little antelope is a Dikdik. I'll add a few more pictures to this page but most of them that we thought we're good enough for the website are on the relevant animal pages.

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sausage tree

Apparently the Baobob tree is one of the trees most associated with Africa but I think of the Umbrella Acacia Tree (left). Another common tree is the Sausage Tree (here).

guinea fowl

Guinea Fowl

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waterbuck

Waterbuck

jackal

We saw some "one-offs" so I'll add these as we go along. First off, a Black Backed Jackal.

owl

jc&kevin

Jonathon and Kevin ventured out of the truck a couple of times. First to see a Pearl Spotted Owl (tiny thing) and then to photograph an African Python.

jc&kevin
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zebra

This is one of Jonathon's more arty photos from our time in Tarangire!

One of my favourite things to see in Africa is the way lots of the animals mix in together. You very often see Wildebeest mixing with Zebra - the story is that the Wildebeest can sense the rain and the Zebra have the sense to know what to do about it!

We spotted a Giant Eagle Owl - beautiful bird. He likes Mongoose for dinner. We saw a few of them scampering about whilst Owl had his daytime nap.
gianteagleowl
mongoose

sunset

leopard

Having watched some Lionesses dismember a Hartebeest, it was time to wander back to camp. Delighted to see a Leopard on the way home. J's camera had to come into its own with all its fancy settings - all I got was 2 eyes in a sea of black!

Day 3 was not such an early start as we were moving on. One final drive though Tarangire before we hit the road.

We came across a family of Baboon. Again, most of the animal pictures are on the separate pages.

baboon
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jc

Jonathon was very comfortable in the jeep but soon jumped up when there was something to photograph!

A final look at Tarangire then we had to move on. What a treat to find out our next stop was Lake Manyara National Park. First stop somewhere to eat our picnic lunch. There were a lot of Storks around.

stork

Yellow Billed Stork

stork

Marabou Stork

butterflies

All the butterflies on the left are male. They were sipping the urine, whether for salt or something else we don't know.

We were pleasantly surprised with how many birds of prey there were for us to see during the course of our trip. The one on the right is a Martial Eagle - not sure what kind of bird his lunch was though.

martial eagle

jc

We enjoying seeing green again. Whereas Tarangire was very dusty, Lake Manyara National Park is very lush due to an underground water source.

lake manyara
birds
One of the main attractions in this park is, as the name suggests, the lake. It was almost dried up when we were there so no hippos or flamingoes to be seen but lots of Pelicans, Storks and other birds.
zebra and birds

monkey

The Blue Monkeys were very playful and could certainly chomp their way through lots of greenery.

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Finally for Lake Manyara National Park, a few general views

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jc

We finally arrived at the Ngorongoro Conservation Area where we were to stay for the next couple of nights.

ngorongoro
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lodge

Home for the next two nights was the Sopa Ngorongoro Lodge. A much larger place, akin to a "normal" hotel but with magnificent views from our room (see left), as it was on the rim of the crater.

sopa
sopa
sopa

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Another early start and down we went into the crater. It's 12km diameter (so huge) and looked "empty" from the top but there were thousands of animals when we got down there.

jc

JC taking pictures of Hippo at the picnic spot at breakfast time. We couldn't get out of the truck at lunchtime when we returned here - apparently nobody had told the Lions that this space was for humans so they were enjoying a drink when we arrived!

larie

larie

There is a Larie forest in the Ngorongoro - beautiful trees that shine bright yellow in the sunlight.

larie

sheep

The Masai still work / live in the crater so there were a few sheep and cows around (not to mention donkeys and the occasional camel).

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flamingo

jc

The pink strip in the distance in the left hand photo was the nearest we go to seeing Flamingo - not a good time of year for seeing them as it was so dry.

rhino

One of the big treats of the holiday was a sighting of a mum and calf Black Rhino - an endangered animal. Kevin explained that each Black Rhino in Ngorongoro has a ranger responsible for checking up on it on a daily basis.

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As you can see, there are a lot of different landscapes within the Crater.
serengeti

mouse

Day 5 saw us on the move again, this time towards the Serengeti. We stopped for our picnic at the gate to the park and were accompanied by mice and birds. They probably felt quite safe there.

hildebrand

Hildebrand Starling

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There were some dramatic views / landscapes as we travelled through the Serengeti National Park to our next camp, Dunia.

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dunia
Unlike Oliver's, Dunia is not a permanent camp so out of season they take it all down and store it until the following year (Mum - I'm sure they dry it first so it doesn't go mouldy).
dunia
dunia
dunia
The shower was a bucket shower which meant someone had to bring hot water and fill our bucket up outside the tent, hoist it up and then when we switched the lever we had a nice warm shower!

leopard

Day 6 was another early start (despite it being Jonathon's 50th birthday!) We had a special day in that we saw Leopard, Cheetah and Lion all in one day - quite amazing.

cheetah

sunrise

The sunrise welcomed us to the day with the trees peeping through the mist.

web

raindrop

It had rained the night before and the remaining raindrops looked lovely on the Acacia spikes as did the cobwebs all over the place.

cobweb

cobweb

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jc&kevin

We had Jonathon's birthday breakfast near the boulders above.

ss

This gives an idea of how big some of the boulders were. Caused by volcanic activity these mounds of rock sare known as Kopjes.

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jc&kevin

Jonathon & Kevin tried to make music on the Gong Rocks.

agamalizard

I was busy taking photos of this Agama Lizard until he looked a bit cross and I then backed off!

choir

JC & Kevin weren't the only musicians that day - the crew at Dunia baked Jonathon a birthday cake and sang some traditional songs to him after dinner.These are a few members of the "Dunia Male Voice Choir"

sunrise

giraffe

Day 7 and we were on the move again, this time northwards bound to Sayari camp and the Mara River. We visited the Lobo Area on the way and saw loads of wildlife.

klipspringer

Klipspringer

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fig tree

Another kind of tree on the left - this time a Fig Tree. By process of elimination, we decided that the plant on the right is a Maerus Edulis - they were springing up everywhere.

plant

We arrived at Sayari in the evening, dusty as ever. No bucket shower this time and plenty of hot water (but we were already missing the team at Dunia).

sayari

Dining Room

reception etc

Reception, Lounge and Bar

sunset

Not a bad sunset before the rain arrived. We thought it had rained at Dunia - it wasn't even trying. Both nights we were at Sayari it absolutely threw it down!

 

The second night we were there the wind was so strong that one of the metal struts in the reception tent blew over (it was wedged in at the top but the wind lifted the canvas so down it came. We decamped to the dining room where we were safer.
Tent, sweet tent for a couple of nights. The first night we were serenaded by Hyena and Lions whereas on the second the Wildebeest surrounded our tent and "mooed" all night. One of our neighbours had Hippo visitors so I think we got the better deal.
tent
tent
hippo
J&D
We kept coming across John & Donna - not sure who was following who. We all stayed at Olivers, Sopa and Dunia but had different last stop places. John was busy recording everything he'd seen for their grandchildren but was going to have to edit most (if not all) of the "Oh, My God"s out before the younger children could hear it!
john & dana
mara

wildebeest

The main purpose of our visit to the Northern Serengeti was to try and see the Wildebeest migration over the Mara River. This seems to be a bit of a misnomer because they seem to cross one way one day and then back again not many days later, only to cross back to Kenya thereafter ... backwards and forwards with no apparent logic at all.

As with the other camps, we had an early start for our full day there. Not too much of a problem when you have sunrises like this.
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crossing

wildebeest

Yes, we saw a crossing. It was exhilerating and horrifying in equal measure. We felt really sorry for the Wildebeest that didn't make it - either from being attacked by a Nile Crocodile, getting washed downstream, getting trapped on the rocks or for any other reason.

mara crossing
wildebeest
mara
wildebeest
Day 9 arrived, our final day on safari before moving to Zanzibar. It was hard to say goodbye to Kevin as his enthusiasm and knowledge had made our trip extra special. Perhaps we will try and go back in the rainy season and see just how different it is. Can hardly imagine it all with long green grass!
plane

A special picture for Norbert. We had a Tanganyika Flying Company, 12 seater, single prop plane from Kogatende Air Strip to Arusha then a Precision Airlines flight from Arusha to Zanzibar (same plane as we had earlier in the week to go from Dar Es Salaam to Kilimanjaro - see above).

Next stop Zanzibar.

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