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Great Ocean Road - page 1

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Our second stop was at The Twelve Apostles. You won't be able to count twelve so please don't try!

There were a lot of people there but it didn't feel too crowded and everyone was considerate of others for photos etc.

We then called in at various stops along the Shipwreck Coast - Loch Ard Gorge, Razorback, Muttonbird Island and others. Muttonbird Island is the one on the right with the arch (and in the mini movie above).

Muttonbird Island is so called because about 50,000 Muttonbirds (Short tailed sheerwaters) live here safe from predators such as foxes and cats. They keep the same partner and burrow for many years and arrive back from their northern migration in late September. These were the birds we saw when on our boat trip to Wineglass Bay but the sea was too rough to let go of the safety rail to try and take photos.

When the birds return (separately but often at the same time as each other, sometimes to the day) they spring clean their burrow, mate then disappear back out to sea for 3 weeks. They lay a single egg late November and take turns to sit on the nest. Eggs hatch mid January. I feel sorry for the chick because it gets fed every day for a week then every few days for a while. It's a hefty bird at 6 weeks (bigger than its parents). At the beginning of April when the big storms kick in the parents leave the nest (and the chick) and head back north. The chicks stay on the island without food and unable to fly but their fat reserves means they grow fast.

Their adult feathers replace the downy juvenile feathers and they teach themselves to fly, setting off for the 15,000 km hourney north by the end of April. They seem to know where to go without any guidance from adults or even a map! Amazing birds.

Don't be fooled by the photo on the right where the sea looks calm. It was really windy and the Great Southern Ocean was putting on a good show for us.

While Jonathon was photographing waves, I focussed on the beautiful flora around me and took a few photos of that to show the contrast to the ocean.

Some of the scenery was more lush than other parts. This part seemed to be almost barren - perhaps because it was was so close to the sea.

Jonathon was fascinated by the waves so, as a special treat, here are a few of his photos. As you can see, he had a wonderful time.

Lunch was at Port Campbell then we thought we'd better resume our journey to our hotel, Oscars Waterfront at Port Fairy. We were tootling along when we came across a road block. Apparently a house was in the middle of the road (we didn't ask) so we had to follow an unmarked diversion. We managed not to get lost and even saw the pretty town of Koroit and the signs for Tower Hill Wildlife Reservation (our aim for the following day) on our way so all was not lost.

We arrived at Oscars to find a lovely large house with a great residents' lounge area and a comfortable bedroom.

Residents' Lounge

Stairs down to front door

He came in because he was getting bitten (but not that much). This was the first day we'd seen any biting insects so it was a bit of a surprise. We had covered ourselves in repellent during the day but perhaps it had worn off by the time Jonathon went out.

While he was doing that I took full advantage of the comfy residents' lounge and homemade shortbread!

Having reached 30C on Wednesday, Thursday was a different day with cloudy skies and a high forecast of 17C and we think English weather is changeable!

The rain managed to stay away until early evening so we had a great time wandering around Tower Hill Reserve. Chris guided us around the Lava Tongue Boardwalk and we asked so many questions that the tour took almost twice as long as normal. It was really interesting and we even ate the bush tucker (all veggie) that he gave us.

Tower Hill is an enormous volcanic crater rimmed by beds of volcanic ash. It hadn't erupted for c.7,000 years so we felt quite safe.

Jonathon was hoping for less walking having walked so far on each of the last few days but that wasn't going to happen. After our walk with Chris and a quick cuppa, we set off for a second walk. Originally we were going to do the 30 minute Wagon Bay Loop but half was round we changed to do the Journey to the Last Volcano! It was a great walk even if a bit steep in places.

There were lots of wild flowers (weeds) around the place which added splashes of colour to the green.

There were a few boxes here and there. Chris explained that these were for the Sugar Gliders but some of the other animals used them as well.

We saw a few creepy crawlies ...

This bull ant was about 2cm long and was, apparently, a small one.

We even managed to catch sight of a couple of more furry animals - rabbits first.

We saw a couple of Wallabies, one of which we almost got close enough to get a decent photo of. He was very busy munching his way through a whole lot of hemlock so was well hidden.

Chris also let Jonathon try on a possum hunting coat - he didn't look too frightening! The fur was really soft and it seemed to be very warm. At birth a baby is given the first piece and as he grows older he acquires additional pieces that are stitched together to make the coat. The inside is also decorated with family history, symbols etc.

The visitor centre is managed by the Wom Gundidj Aboriginal Community a "not for profit organisation, founded in 1992, that harmonises contemporary artistic creation and nature-based tourism".

Dinner was at L'Edera - a delicious Italian meal in a very relaxed, friendly restaurant. We were going to go to Griffiths Island to watch the Muttonbirds flying in for the night but it was too rainy so we settled in the comfy lounge with the fire on instead.

We woke up to a very wet morning. Such a shame as it was our last morning in Aus and we had intended to do the historic walk of Port Fairy. Not to be outdone, we decided to do it by car instead so here are a few (wet) photos of what we saw. There were 36 points of interest in total.

The former Court House c.1859, now the Port Fairy History Centre.

Railway Goods Shed c.1890. The railway station was slightly to the west of the building. The line closed in 1977.

Star of the West Hotel c.1856. Once the staging post for Cobb & Co. coaches.

Motts Cottage, built by William Hooper c.mid 1840s.

This cottage was built from limestone rubble, c.1856.

Prefabricated cottages c.1853 with a shared chimney.

Paired cottages c.1859.

Lecture Hall c.1882

Former Mechanics Institute Library c.1865. Still in use as the local branch library

Former Bank of Australasia c.1857

Former Stag Inn c.1847

Caledonian Hotel c.1844

Former Market Hall c.1873

St Johns Anglican Church, foundation stone laid 1854 although the tower was not completed until 1955

St Patrick's Roman Catholic Church c.1859

As you can see from the photo on the right, there was quite a variety.

I didn't realise Sparrows got so close to sea water but apparently this one does.

That was our last sighting of the sea. From there we called in at Victoria State Rose Garden. It was a shame it was so wet so we didn't feel like staying long but the rain drops made for pretty photos on the petals.

Walking through the gate, we were met with a beautiful view - roses of every colour, all well tended and set out in easy to wander around beds. Amazing to think they are cared for by volunteers.

Looking through the bandstand.

We both really liked these avenues - there were a few of them radiating out from the bandstand.

It's impossible to show in the photos just how amazing the garden is. Pity we couldn't photograph the wonderful scent as well.

That was the end of another great holiday. It's appropriate to end with roses as we saw them everywhere, looking wonderful.

Finally, a couple of Aussie phrases we picked up along the way:

On the Wineglass Bay Cruise: - D: are you having a good holiday. JC: Yes thanks. D: Well, no point in having a c**p one is there!

On the way to Port Fairy:- You can't drive down there cos there's a house in the middle of the road. (It had fallen off a truck)

On being breath tested:- No worries, I've got a special juice monitor (when Jonathon told the policeman what he'd had to drink that evening).

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Great Ocean Road - page 1

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