Australia and Kuala Lumpur October / November 2013
2013 found us on our way back to Australia, this time via Kuala Lumpur. I arranged the trip with AusTravel. I had visited KL on an earlier stopover but this was Jonathon's first time. From there we went to Brisbane, Tasmania, Melbourne and the Great Ocean Road. Please click below to go to the relevant pages.

Kuala Lumpur

Brisbane

Hobart

Freycinet

Launceston

Melbourne

Great Ocean Road - page 1

Great Ocean Road - page 2

strewth

Another part of the trip meant another car. Hillie took us into Melbourne to pick up our hire car. We'd ordered a Corolla but they didn't have one. As an apology for keeping us waiting they upgraded us to a Toyota Rav 4 - very nice. To reflect the surprise, we called him Strewth.

The Great Ocean Road was stunning. It's hard to describe the vastness of the turquoise sea without sounding over the top, safe to say we were both very impressed and took a load of photos on our journey down to Apollo Bay.

eaglerock
jc
eaglerock

First stop was Split Point Lookout / Lighthouse and Eagle Rock Marine Sanctuary. The walk up to the lighthouse was very pretty with glimpses back to the ocean and the creek.

split point view
The views from the top, as you would expect, were amazing. We spent quite a bit of time there admiring, photographing and generally being in awe of nature.
panorama

eaglerock

Back down to the bottom and we had a walk on the beach to take more photos and enjoy the waves (we managed to keep our feet dry but only just).

eaglerock

jc

One way of keeping your feet dry!

ss
eagle rock
eagle rock
sand
Next stop was Devil's Elbow for some more spectacular scenery.
devil's elbow
devil's elbow
There was ocean on one side and woodland on the other - a wonderful combination. At this stage we were driving along in the Great Otway National Park.
devil's elbow
Jonathon decided to try something a bit clever with one of his photos. I think I prefer the one with the colours.
devil's elbow
patton

A final pull in at Cape Patton and we decided it was time to head for our hotel, Captain's at the Bay in Apollo Bay.

room

room
room

We had a stroll around the town, a cuppa sitting on our deck and then went to Restaurant Casalingo for a delicious dinner.

That was the end of Monday.

On to Tuesday and we decided to do The Loop, a circular drive through / round Great Otway National Park. It was a lovely drive - very twisty and green.

maits
fungus
First stop was Maits Rest for a walk around. It was beautiful and we couldn't resist walking around twice - clockwise the first time and anticlockwise the second.
jc
maits rest
maits

maits

The mini movie on the left was my attempt to show how tall some of the trees grow.
ss
fern
fungus

jc

Jonathon standing next to the base of one of the large eucalypts.

maits rest
plant
jc
jc
fern
plants

flowers

Next stop off was Castle Cove Lookout for some ocean views. There were a few wild flowers around, complete with insect visitors.

castle cove
castle cove
flwoer

hinterland

The hinterland was very green and agricultural.

panorama
castle cove
We realised we'd been in Australia for more than 2 weeks and not had a pie so that was put to rights for lunch in Lavers Hill. Yummy pies and chips (if not too healthy!). We also enjoyed watching the bird visitors in the garden. The flowers were very pretty too.
rosella
sparrow
flowers
rosella
We walked our lunch off by visiting Triplet Falls, dramatic waterfalls at the north end of the loop that we were travelling.
falls
falls
way to falls
Jonathon was very busy doing clever things with his camera!
falls
falls
The waterfalls were really loud. Even though there were a lot of steps to get down then back up we were very glad we'd made the effort.
falls
falls
The walk to the falls was also pretty with the light filtering through the trees.
falls
treewalk
One of the main reasons for doing The Loop was to go on the Otway Treetop Walk. There was also a zip abseil thingy there but we didn't even enquire as to whether there were any places on that.

otway

The walk to the entrance was very picturesque and there were lots of info boards around.

otway
otway
treewalk

The afternoon light was lovely, shining through the canopy.

The walkway is known as the Otway Fly and is 600 metres long. It was in cool temperate rainforest, 500 metres above sea level.

otway

Jonathon wasn't 100% happy about being out on the cantilever but at least he did it (see right). It was 33 metres above ground and 24 metres long. You can see I was a bit more relaxed.

otway
tower
tower
The tower was one step too far for Jonathon so I went up there without him. I was 47 metres above the forest floor when I reached the top ....
.... and the view of the tops of the trees was great to see. Jonathon looked tiny on the walkway below me (no photo of him though).
treetops
ferns
trees

trees

60% of the walk was built on pre-existing logging tracks to minimise the upset to the environment.

otway
otway
We even managed to spot a couple of wild beasties while we were driving around.
kangaroo
wallaby
kangaroo
sunset

We drove down the road to Cape Otway Lightstation to watch the sun go down. Although we couldn't see it there (lighthouse was closed and Jonathon and others couldn't find a good vantage point), we spotted a place on the side of the road that would work. We had a picnic whilst we were waiting.

We thought that would be the end of Tuesday's excitement but Jonathon was pulled over by the police on the way back to our hotel. Apparently they were doing random breath checks, especially with it being Melbourne Cup day. Needless to say, Jonathon was not under the influence so we were allowed to continue our journey. The policeman knew Orpington because his family came from Kent - small world!

gibson steps

Wednesday dawned bright, clear, sunny and a lot warmer. We had to leave Apollo Bay and head for Port Fairy further west. Lots of stopping off points along the way, the first of which was Gibson Steps.

gibson steps
twelve apostles

jc

Our second stop was at The Twelve Apostles. You won't be able to count twelve so please don't try!

There were a lot of people there but it didn't feel too crowded and everyone was considerate of others for photos etc.

We then called in at various stops along the Shipwreck Coast - Loch Ard Gorge, Razorback, Muttonbird Island and others. Muttonbird Island is the one on the right with the arch (and in the mini movie above).

coast

Muttonbird Island is so called because about 50,000 Muttonbirds (Short tailed sheerwaters) live here safe from predators such as foxes and cats. They keep the same partner and burrow for many years and arrive back from their northern migration in late September. These were the birds we saw when on our boat trip to Wineglass Bay but the sea was too rough to let go of the safety rail to try and take photos.

When the birds return (separately but often at the same time as each other, sometimes to the day) they spring clean their burrow, mate then disappear back out to sea for 3 weeks. They lay a single egg late November and take turns to sit on the nest. Eggs hatch mid January. I feel sorry for the chick because it gets fed every day for a week then every few days for a while. It's a hefty bird at 6 weeks (bigger than its parents). At the beginning of April when the big storms kick in the parents leave the nest (and the chick) and head back north. The chicks stay on the island without food and unable to fly but their fat reserves means they grow fast.

Their adult feathers replace the downy juvenile feathers and they teach themselves to fly, setting off for the 15,000 km hourney north by the end of April. They seem to know where to go without any guidance from adults or even a map! Amazing birds.

island archway
razorback

rocks

Don't be fooled by the photo on the right where the sea looks calm. It was really windy and the Great Southern Ocean was putting on a good show for us.

coast
flora

jc

While Jonathon was photographing waves, I focussed on the beautiful flora around me and took a few photos of that to show the contrast to the ocean.

flora

Some of the scenery was more lush than other parts. This part seemed to be almost barren - perhaps because it was was so close to the sea.

flora
flora
flora
flora
flora
flora

jc

Jonathon was fascinated by the waves so, as a special treat, here are a few of his photos. As you can see, he had a wonderful time.

waves
waves
waves
waves
waves
waves

Lunch was at Port Campbell then we thought we'd better resume our journey to our hotel, Oscars Waterfront at Port Fairy. We were tootling along when we came across a road block. Apparently a house was in the middle of the road (we didn't ask) so we had to follow an unmarked diversion. We managed not to get lost and even saw the pretty town of Koroit and the signs for Tower Hill Wildlife Reservation (our aim for the following day) on our way so all was not lost.

We arrived at Oscars to find a lovely large house with a great residents' lounge area and a comfortable bedroom.

res lounge
Residents' Lounge

stairs
Stairs down to front door

bedroom
Bedroom
stairs
Entrance Hall
deck
Deck
view
View from deck
oscars
View from river
As we were by the river, Jonathon decided to go out and take some arty photos of reflections and the like. He even managed to get a bird or two in a few of them. Here are a couple.
boat
water

He came in because he was getting bitten (but not that much). This was the first day we'd seen any biting insects so it was a bit of a surprise. We had covered ourselves in repellent during the day but perhaps it had worn off by the time Jonathon went out.

While he was doing that I took full advantage of the comfy residents' lounge and homemade shortbread!

Having reached 30C on Wednesday, Thursday was a different day with cloudy skies and a high forecast of 17C and we think English weather is changeable!

The rain managed to stay away until early evening so we had a great time wandering around Tower Hill Reserve. Chris guided us around the Lava Tongue Boardwalk and we asked so many questions that the tour took almost twice as long as normal. It was really interesting and we even ate the bush tucker (all veggie) that he gave us.

tower hill
jc & chris

tower hill

Tower Hill is an enormous volcanic crater rimmed by beds of volcanic ash. It hadn't erupted for c.7,000 years so we felt quite safe.

jc
tower hill

tower hill

Jonathon was hoping for less walking having walked so far on each of the last few days but that wasn't going to happen. After our walk with Chris and a quick cuppa, we set off for a second walk. Originally we were going to do the 30 minute Wagon Bay Loop but half was round we changed to do the Journey to the Last Volcano! It was a great walk even if a bit steep in places.

plant

There were lots of wild flowers (weeds) around the place which added splashes of colour to the green.

tower hill
plant
plant
plant
tower hill
plant
plant
tower hill

box

There were a few boxes here and there. Chris explained that these were for the Sugar Gliders but some of the other animals used them as well.

spider

We saw a few creepy crawlies ...

ant

This bull ant was about 2cm long and was, apparently, a small one.

... and a few reptiles (no snakes as too cold).
skink
terrapin
terrapin
bird
butterfly
We saw a few pretty flying things ...
bird
bird
eagle
bird
bird
bird
bird
swans
... and a bird or two that didn't fly
emu
emu
emu

rabbit

We even managed to catch sight of a couple of more furry animals - rabbits first.

rabbit

wallaby

We saw a couple of Wallabies, one of which we almost got close enough to get a decent photo of. He was very busy munching his way through a whole lot of hemlock so was well hidden.
wallaby
wallaby
It was lovely to see these animals in the wild. It was equally lovely to see wild Koalas, even if one of them did seem to be precariously balanced right at the top of a gum tree.
koala
koala
koala
Having admired the animals and between walks, Chris let us have a go with boomerangs - we were hopeless.
boomerang
possum coat

Chris also let Jonathon try on a possum hunting coat - he didn't look too frightening! The fur was really soft and it seemed to be very warm. At birth a baby is given the first piece and as he grows older he acquires additional pieces that are stitched together to make the coat. The inside is also decorated with family history, symbols etc.

The visitor centre is managed by the Wom Gundidj Aboriginal Community a "not for profit organisation, founded in 1992, that harmonises contemporary artistic creation and nature-based tourism".

possum coat

Dinner was at L'Edera - a delicious Italian meal in a very relaxed, friendly restaurant.

We were going to go to Griffiths Island to watch the Muttonbirds flying in for the night but it was too rainy so we settled in the comfy lounge with the fire on instead.

Please click here to move on to the second page for our trip along the Great Ocean Road.

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